Whales and Wine

All pumped up about great white shark “diving” (especially for the cheap price of R795 per person through Hermanus Backpackers) we are told that a cold front had moved in making the weather quite uncooperative for the tours to go out. Concerned, but still in high spirits we take a pleasant stroll along the coastline board walk in search for some whales. The Southern Right Whale is the most common and inherited its name as they are slow swimmers, float when dead, and rich in oil making them the “right” whale to hunt. Walkers Bay in Hermanus is the breeding ground for these whales, so no need to search too hard, they are just there. The whales get so close to the shore that we could have jumped out and rode one, but we refrained. These gentle giants would also breach out in the distance.

We awoke to discover our tour had been postponed till later that day, but a few hours later it had been completely cancelled. Hoping for luck the next day we decide to drive to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa, where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. For centuries this coastline has proven to be a treacherous place for shipping vessels and is commonly referred to as the “Graveyard of Ships.” At least 140 ships have sunk or run aground due to thick fogs, strange currents and jagged shores. Before the Suez Canal was built, the main trade route between Europe and the East was around the tip of South Africa. In 1849, after receiving international pressure, a light house was constructed and fat from sheep was used to fuel it. The most recent wreck (1982) was a Japanese vessel, the Meishu Maru 38. It’s rusted hull surrounded by ice blue water is a reminder that this coastline is still a dangerous place for sailors. Later, back in Hermanus we splurged on sushi and beer as we prayed to the weather gods for smooth seas.

The weather was no good the next day, and come to find neither would the next two days. Crushed, we make our way to Cape Town, though optimistic that the storm system would clear out before we left South Africa. Nothing like a little beverage to cheer us up so we drove to Stellenbosch, a city well known for its plethora of wineries, to sample the local grapes. We visited three different vineyards, each very different, and sipped on merlots, pinotage, and some sauvignon blancs with Jenny enjoying some of Jason’s share since he was DD. Feeling a little more relaxed we make our journey to Cape Town.